The New Club, Princes Street, Edinburgh
We had a splendid five days in the Athens of the North last week and stayed at the New Club in Princes Street. It belies its name, as it was founded in 1787 and is Scotland's oldest and pre-eminent private Members Club. However, if we were expecting to see this rather splendid, if dour, frontage, we were to be disappointed. One has to admit, the replacement in the 1960s lived up to that foul decade's architectural standards. The 'New' building's outside is awful; the entrance is squeezed in next to an Ann Summers shop, with an outspoken window dressing; there is a grimy ATI unit and an even grimier layabout the first day we got there, begging for money. From the Edinburgh Castle battlements, on the Friday, the building stuck out like a sore thumb, particularly the bedroom block and lift shaft. To be fair, the inside was more than adequate - a very large lounge, a nicely panelled dining room, and well-appointed, big bedrooms. Give me our Caledonian Club in London any day!
Quite apart from a week's relaxing break, I had one or two pilgrimages on my 'shopping list'. First off the block, the Monday afternoon saw us in St Cuthbert's churchyard, at the west end of Princes Street Gardens, searching for Susan Ferrier's resting-place.
The Ferrier Family monument
Susan Edmonstone Ferrier
Born 7th September 1782. Died 5th November 1854
It was a typical 19th century graveyard - best seen in the rain with heavy clouds - with memorials to the great and good, in blackened Edinburgh stone. One expected to encounter Abel Magwich skulking behind one of the gravestones. As an aside, as my wife remarked, most of the men had their careers next to their names; the women were mere daughters, wives or sisters.
Later that afternoon, we walked along George Street to search for Susan Ferrier's home at No. 25, where she kept house for her father. It had been converted into a business premises.
25 George Street (once No. 11)
The following morning, Tuesday, we visited the Scottish National Portrait Gallery in Queen Street. It is a red sandstone neo-gothic building, which opened in 1889.
As with all large museums/art galleries, one eventually glazes over, after yet another florid Scottish face stares out at you. There was an excellent gallery devoted to the Jacobites and some splendid paintings of Sir Walter Scott. It was only at the very end, about to leave the entrance hall area, that I spotted the bust I had come to see.
Then it was but a short walk to Albany Street, where, at No. 38, Susan Ferrier died at her brother's house in 1854.
No 38 Albany Street
On the other side of the street was the second reason for a 'pilgrimage' - Mary Brunton. She lived with her husband, the Rev. Alexander Brunton at No. 35; she died there, on 7th December 1818, aged only 39, having given birth to a still-born son.
The following morning, we climbed the hill to the Old Town and walked down the 'Royal Mile' Near the bottom is Canongate Kirk. In its kirkyard both Bruntons are buried. Their tablet is on the west wall.
Mary Brunton (née Balfour)
Born 1st November 1778. Died 7th December 1818.
It is difficult to read and the photograph above does it no favours. However, it was quite moving to stand below it and, as with Susan Ferrier's grave, think on how much pleasure her books have given me.
Two good, but virtually forgotten, Scottish novelists, helping to make their city such a cultural centre.
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